Bigger injectors require more fuel. Lots more fuel than what the oem system can put out. And the OEM stuff has many faults, which just makes it that much more appealing to replace the whole darn system! I was planning on doing some work to the truck and I knew it would be laid up for a while, so figured I might as well go for it. I knew where I was going with it and a new fuel system was a definite necessity.
Overview of Project:
I credit just about every technical detail of this project to Byron Eddins. He created the system, I just copied it. Even though he offers a very comprehensive kit that would have been easier to install and probably cheaper in the end, I knew I’d be making some changes anyway so I figured I’d do it all myself and learn all I can along the way. I purchased the Vormax filter and the fuel cooler from Byron, and everything else came from Summit Racing, Jeg’s or locally. I figured up all the materials myself using the numerous posts on TDS.com and input from Byron himself, placed a huge order and went to it.
I decided to go all out and replace every figgin thing in the fuel system. Once I had the bed off and fuel tanks out (for the sandblasting and painting of the frame) it was easy to rip out the old lines and install new tubing. I don’t think I would have done it, or do it again, without removing the bed and tanks. What a pain it would be to do all this from underneath. Nevertheless, a project like this takes basic mechanical and fabricating skills, lots of patients, and many trips to get the necessary supplies and materials.
Materials Used:
Well, I don’t really care to spell out every fitting I used as this was a CUSTOM application. Your system is sure to be different. But I will touch on the basics:
- Aeromotive A11101 fuel pump.
- Aeromotive 13109 boost controlled fuel regulator.
- Painless #50102 universal fuel pump relay.
- 15′ of #10 Aeromotive AQP socketless hose.
- 10′ of #8 Aeromotive AQP socketless hose.
- 10′ of #6 Aeromotive AQP socketless hose.
- 25′ of Summit 5/8" aluminum tubing.
- 25′ of Summit 1/2" aluminum tubing.
- Misc. Aeromotive socketless fittings, and Earl’s tube sleeves, tube nuts, tubing clamps, unions, and
bulkheads. - Summit liquid filled fuel pressure gauge.
- Webb Vormax fuel filter, and fuel cooler from Byron.
Building The Fuel System:
I started by installing a Bronco Fuel Tank in place of the OEM rear tank. I decided to run one larger tank than the two OEM tanks so I wouldn’t have to deal with a cross-over hose between the two tanks, or build a custom splitter valve. I then stripped the sending unit/fuel pick-up plate on the top of the tank of everything but the wire connection. I used a 5/8" bulkhead fitting and tubing for the fuel pick-up and a 1/2" bulkhead fitting and tubing for the return. I kicked the return to the back of the tank so it wouldn’t be sucking up the warm fuel just returned from the engine. I attached the OEM Bronco sending unit to the return tube with hose clamps, allowing for fine tuning of the gauge.
From the pick-up, I ran 5/8" supply to the Webb Vormax filter, mounted on a piece of aluminum angle bolted to the top of the frame rail. This is only possible with the 3" body lift because the bed will hit otherwise. Also seen in the pic is the return. I used one piece of 1/2" aluminum tubing from near the engine all the way back to the tank, then ran the flexible hose to the tank.
5/8" hose from the Vormax filter to the Aeromotive pump, then to a bulkhead fitting on the frame. I ran 5/8" aluminum tubing from there to near the radiator. The pump and filter are mounted high, out of harms way and easy to get to without the front tank there. I did notice a vibration through the floor of the cab from the fuel pump. I plan to re-mount the pump using some thick rubber spacers to try to isolate the pump from the frame.
The fuel pump relay. Painless has a great kit, only takes a few minutes to wire. I installed mine above the IDM on the driver’s side fender. I wired it to a switch on the dash so I can turn the pump off when I’m working on the engine and need to crank it over without fuel being pushed through. Or the switch can be used as a theft deterrent, as the truck won’t run for very long without fuel being pumped to it.
Inside driver’s side front tire. Bulkhead is where return from regulator transitions to tubing to return back to the tank. The solid tube is the supply from the pump.
Near the radiator, the tubing from the pump changes to hose to the cooler, then from the cooler up to the splitter.
The cooler seen between the bumper and grille. In thru the bottom, out at the top.
From the cooler to the splitter located on the driver’s side inner fender. From there, the hose runs to the back of each head.
I had to weld a 90* fitting together for the driver’s side as the body lift prohibited me from using a straight fitting like what I used for the passenger side. It’s tricky to get the fitting indexed just right, but a thicker o-ring dialed it in perfectly.
From the front of each head to the regulator. I made a bracket out of aluminum for the regulator, and added a gauge to ease adjustments. Boost line comes off the regulator to the left.
Results:
Fuel pressure is great! All the hoses and tubing went together perfectly and are held snuggly away from any harmful parts. The regulator is real easy to adjust, and all the fittings are accessible to monitor for leaks, and to tighten if they should appear. Thanks again to Byron Eddins for creating such a great system.
Happy wrenching.
