Clutch Replacement

Tranny jack
2 or 3 ratchet straps
porta power (this will make removing the cross member MUCH eaiser) A bottle jack and a piece of 4×4 will work in a pinch. Drill a hole in the end of the 4×4 to allow the bottle jack shaft to go in the 4×4 a couple of inches
Selection of wrenches, sockets, drifts/punches, and maybe a prybar or two.
various other garage implements.

1. Jack the truck up front and rear so the tires are at least 6″ off the ground.
You can be lower, but it is so much easier to deal with the flywheel and clutch
pak if you can be actually sitting under the truck.
2. Remove Front and rear drive shafts. You will have to remove the carrier
bearing assembly for the rear as well. Use a rubber glove to put over the end of
the transfer case to keep the oil from dripping all over.

3. Remove the skid plate.
4. Disconnect the various wires and hoses from the transmission and transfer
5. Disconnect the 4wd linkage from the transfer case

6. remove the vacuum lines (if you have the CAD) from the cross member and the
7. Unbolt and remove the clutch slave cylinder and secure it out of the way.
8. Remove ALL BUT TWO of the transmission mounting bolts – one on each side.
9. Remove the two bolts from the exhaust mount on the rear of the tranny.
10. Disassemble the shift tower and remove the four bolts holding the stick to
the tranny. Pull up on the stick assembly and set to the side.

11. Set the tranny jack under the transmission in the rear half of the tranny.
Use a ratchet strap to help secure the tranny to the jack. Take care no to have
the straps where they will get cut when the transmission comes down, and that
the tranny will not roll over on the jack. Put just a little upward pressure on
the tranny.
12. Remove the 8 nuts & bolts holding the cross member, and the 2 holding the
transfer case mount
13. Set the porta power between the frame rails behind the cross member and
slowly start to spread the frame. When the cross member is loose, remove the
transfer case mount.

14. Continue to spread the frame until you can wiggle, and twist the cross
member out DO NOT OVER SPREAD THE FRAME! Only spread it enough where you can
slide the cross member slightly forward to get over the ridge to get it out. You
may have to set the porta power behind the transfer case so you can slide the
cross member towards the rear.
15. Once the cross member is removed verify that there is nothing still attached
to the tranny (wires/vacuum lines, brackets attached to the truck somehow. . .) and
remove the porta power
16. lower the tranny about 1 to 1.5 inches.
17. Set another jack under the oil pan. With a piece of wood to distribute the
weight, slowly lift the front of the engine so you have a little angle pointing
down towards the rear of the truck. You may have to lower the tranny another

18. Remove the last two bolts and split the tranny from the engine.
19. Pull the tranny straight back from the engine until the input shaft is clear
of the clutch pak. Keep an eye on the shift tower so that it clears the access
hole to the cab. You may have to lower the tranny some more, or lift the front
of the engine.
20. Once the tranny is clear of the clutch, continue to slowly lower and push
the tranny back. You may have to move slightly to the drivers side to clear the
exhaust mount bracket.
21. Once the tranny is clear of obstruction, lower it all the way and slide back
so that you can get to the clutch pak with ease.
22. Verify that you have the correct friction plate by fitting it on the input

23. Remove the uppermost pressure plate bolt and rethread by hand about 1/2 way
24. Using the clutch alignment tool from your new clutch, insert it into the
friction plate and into the flywheel bearing
25. Remove the rest of the plate bolts in a star or criss cross pattern.

26. Keeping a good grip on the pressure plate, remove the last bolt from the
pressure plate and remove the clutch pak from the flywheel
27. Remove and rethread the uppermost bolt on the flywheel
28. Remove the remaining bolts on the flywheel.
29. Using a dead blow or rubber mallet, smack the crap out of the flywheel until
it breaks loose from the engine.
30. Keeping a firm grip on the flywheel, it weighs like 75#, remove the last
bolt and remove the flywheel. OK it only weighs maybe 40, but 75 made you hold
on to it a little better.
31. Have the flywheel ground by a shop that uses a grinder NOT A LATHE to
resurface the flywheel.

32. Using a flashlight, look inside the bell housing of the tranny and on the
left side (while you are looking at it) there is a keeper spring that is holding
the clutch lever to the pivot point. You need to see how it is on there so you
can put it back on the same way. Remove the clutch lever by pulling straight
back, the retaining spring will come with it. Remove the throw out bearing and
install the new one.
33. Reinstall the clutch lever in the tranny.

34. Once you have your flywheel back, thoroughly clean the surface with brake
cleaner, including all the holes in the outer edge. When it is clean DO NOT
35. Remove the old pilot bearing and Lightly grease the new pilot bearing and
insert it in the flywheel with the proper tools (a socket with the same diameter
as the driver and a hammer works in a pinch). Clean any new grease marks on the
36. Hold the flywheel up to the engine and thread the upper most bolt to hold it
in place, then thread the rest of the bolts. Tighten them to the proper torque
(101ft#) in a star or criss cross pattern.
37. Using the clutch alignment tool, insert it in the friction plate with the
appropriate markings on the friction plate facing out and then insert the
assembly into the pilot bearing on the flywheel.
38. Hold the pressure plate up to the flywheel, and thread the upper most bolt
to hold it in place. Thread the rest of the mounting bolts into the pressure
39. In a criss cross or star pattern tighten the mounting bolts one turn at a
40. Torque the bolts to the appropriate number (30 – or otherwise indicated by
clutch mnfctr)

41. Roll the tranny into position and begin jacking it up. You will have to move
forward and up in small increments to clear the clutch assembly and the shift
tower in the cab. Watch for anything the tranny may catch on (4wd linkage,
clutch slave cylinder, wires, hoses. . .)

42. Once you have the tranny lined up and partially inserted into the clutch
assembly, use another ratchet strap running from frame rail to frame rail near
the transfer case to help hold that end up. This will allow you to make the
minor adjustments to the angle while inserting.
43. Continue to move the tranny into the clutch, being careful not to force it.
Using a drift in the dowel pin holes will help with the alignment. Use of a
geared socket to turn the flywheel from the access port on the passenger side of
the engine (opposite of the starter) may make aligning the splines easier.
44. Once the tranny is up against the engine, insert the mounting bolts and
tighten them up.
45. Release the jack under the oil pan slowly while lifting the tranny up at the
same speed.
46. Re-install everything removed in reverse order (16, 15, . . .1)

[thanks to Sticks of TDR used with permission]
This entry was posted in Drivetrain, Transmission and tagged . Bookmark the permalink. Both comments and trackbacks are currently closed.